48 hours in Melbourne may not seem like much, but it's enough time to get a taste of what this vibrant city has to offer. Like any hometown, Melbourne is brimming with familiar faces and cherished memories. Although I now call Sydney home, every return visit to Melbourne fills me with a mix of nostalgia and anticipation for the city's ever-evolving charm.
As I explore Melbourne, it feels like stepping into a grand old house with numerous hidden rooms waiting to be discovered. With each visit, a new door opens, revealing exciting possibilities - be it an innovative restaurant, a hidden park, or a laneway bar I've unknowingly passed countless times before.
Speaking of doors, Melbourne's creativity and excitement can be attributed to its citizens. The city thrives on diverse conversations, and it seems that Melbourne has the perfect meeting places tucked away. Step inside one of its countless interior spaces - be it a cozy café, a trendy restaurant, an atmospheric bar, or an inspiring gallery or bookshop - and you'll find yourself in an environment conducive to great discussions.
During your 48 hours in Melbourne, be sure to venture beyond the obvious tourist attractions and discover the city's hidden gems. Explore the iconic laneways, try culinary delights in bustling markets, visit world-class museums and art galleries, or soak up the vibrant atmosphere in one of Melbourne's many festivals. With its thriving cultural scene, stunning architecture, and warm hospitality, Melbourne is a city that never fails to captivate.
Melbourne is like a treasure trove of hidden rooms within an old grand house, each visit offering new discoveries.
My Melbourne is mostly northside, a city of the back streets of Fitzroy, late nights on Smith Street, walks or bike rides in Clifton Hill, Sunday markets at the Abbotsford convent, the movies and dinner in Carlton, the bars of Gertrude Street.
But speak to someone who lives to the south, in Elwood or St Kilda or Prahran, and their Melbourne will be of bays and beaches, the nightclubs of Chapel Street, the avenues of Albert Park, the antique stores of Armadale and the boutiques of Brighton.
The one thing that unites north and south is a love of AFL – so if you are in Melbourne over a winter weekend, make sure you catch a game at the “G”.
I’m back regularly but these days need to confine my visits to a 48-hour period. So I’ll come in on a Friday afternoon on a Tiger flight and then get the Skybus ($18) to the old Spencer Street station, now known as Southern Cross station.
That road in from the airport, flat and long, industrial, usually under low grey skies, unimproved by the splashes of colour and distraction of the Jeff Kennett-era bridges, never hints at Melbourne’s rich hinterland. This is a place where you have to know where to go, because unlike Sydney the good stuff doesn’t just jump out at you.
Friday
3pm, coffee and book shops
After getting the Skybus from the airport , and buying a Myki transport card (from a 7/11 or newsagents), head into the CBD and grab a coffee. Melbourne’s caffeine scene is justifiably world-famous, and even the most modest looking sandwich bar will serve you a decent coffee.
I take a tram up from Southern Cross station to the Paris end of town at the corner of Bourke and Spring. I recommend a visit to the nearby Pellegrini’s at the top of Bourke Street – one of the first cafes to open in Melbourne (in 1951). The coffee here is a bit bitter but for a slice of Melbourne’s history it’s worth dropping into the family-run business and downing a cup from your seat at the counter. Pellegrini’s also serves up hearty Italian fare for around $20 for a plate of pasta.
In the vicinity is City Wine Shop. It’s a lovely bar at night, surrounded by a wall of bottles and low lighting and frequented by journos and political types from Spring Street (hence the need for dim lighting),but during the day they do a reliably smooth, almost creamy flat white. There’s also a selection of top shelf wines to take away.
After you’ve had your caffeine fix, visit two of Melbourne’s best bookstores just round the corner in Bourke Street. Hill of Content, a stately institution on the corner of Bourke and Exhibition, has very knowledgeable staff, while the more raffish Paperback, again on Bourke Street, is also worth exploring, particularly its bargain table. It’s impossible to leave either store without purchasing something.
At 4pm, set your bags down, Sheraton Hotel
My accommodation of choice is the recently established Sheraton, located at the intersection of Spring Street and Little Collins Street. This towering and sophisticated hotel boasts of a rooftop lounge and roomy suites equipped with remarkably cozy beds.
For quite some time, Melbourne witnessed a lack of new hotels. However, a surge in hotel establishments has changed the scene, making it a vibrant and burgeoning part of the city's community. Reminiscent of contemporary art curations, new hotels such as the Crown Metropol, the Langham, art-centered residents like the Cullen, the Olsen, and the Blackman all contribute to the flourishing hotel scene. For more information on the best accommodations throughout Australia, tophotels.com provides excellent resources. Meanwhile, beyond the usual inner-city precincts, establishments such as the Dandenong Motel offer alternative lodging options for explorers looking to venture outside the city limits. This particular motel features comfortable accommodation, maintaining the standard of hospitality Melbourne is renowned for. Additionally, there's the newly established Hilton Double Tree near Flinders Street station and the Sheraton, which adorned Little Collins Street just last year. The multitude of options further propels the growth and diversity within Melbourne's hotel sector, reflecting the city's ever-expanding appeal to both domestic and international visitors.
For a while, Melbourne had seen few hotel openings, but now new establishments are emerging at a fast pace.
If your taste leans more towards a domestic vibe, my suggestion is the Brooklyn Arts Hotel , a renovated terrace in Fitzroy located just off the highly trendy Gertrude Street.
Come 6pm, prepare for dinner with cocktails
Close to the Sheraton, in the Meyers Place laneway, you'll find an abundance of quaint bars perfect for an appetizer crawl before your meal.
One standout spot is the subtly named Meyers Place Bar. This bar, one of Melbourne's first laneway bars from the '90s, maintains its charm and remains a top choice. A simple, down-to-earth venue, it features reused wooden furniture, great musical ambience and reasonably priced beverages.
For those fancying an upgrade on their usual fare, consider visiting the neighboring Lily Blacks. This luxurious, art deco-themed bar is perfect if you're in the mood for a sophisticated cocktail.
Dinner time at 8pm, Flinders Lane
Over recent years, Melbourne has seen an interesting trend- lines of eager patrons standing in long queues outside dining establishments, willingly waiting for more than an hour to secure a spot. This surge is mainly due to the influx of ultra-trending, reservation-free eateries such as the Chin Chin (Asian fusion) and Mamasita (Mexican).
The top choice for me, however, is definitely Chin Chin, where I manage to snag a table without a prior booking. The waiting period is relatively short, at just 15 minutes, during which I am accommodated at the bar.
The restaurant brings a bounty of culinary delights to the table (particularly when you come with a group and opt for a shared dining experience). Among the vast range of dishes, the crispy barramundi with green apple salad, the seasoned soft-shell crusted crab, and the twice-cooked beef short rib are especially noteworthy. There's also an option for those facing decision-dilemmas: for $69 per person, the staff will provide you with an array of their top favorites.
In the dining gem that is Flinders Lane, other remarkable establishments include Coda, Supernormal, and Cumulus Inc. This area is a must-visit for food lovers due to its incredible array of gastronomic options.
10pm, after-dinner and up late, Cherry Bar
There’s a load of bars in the city, and half the fun is wandering around and finding them yourself (look out for things like a dim light above the door, or a queue of people down a laneway lining up behind a bin) but why not walk up a few blocks to ACDC Lane and see some live music? Cherry Bar is an institution – unpretentious, gritty and dedicated to live music. It became famous for turning away Lady Gaga because it had a previous booking with a local band – and it is this loyalty to the Melbourne music scene, and dedication to providing a space for emerging bands, that has earned it so many die-hard fans.
It’s also a lot of fun, particularly late at night. The carpet is sticky, the characters by the bar in the cowboy hats can be kooky, the music is loud, but this is the real deal and there are gigs on every night.
Day One, Saturday
10:00 AM: Savor Brunch at Gertrude Street
While your hotel, the Sheraton, offers a fantastic morning meal, stepping out for a culinary adventure could offer a delightful twist to your day. Set course for the lovely neighborhood of Fitzroy, particularly the intersections of Brunswick and Gertrude streets, known for their plethora of delightful morning dining options.
Brunswick and Gertrude streets in Fitzroy are veritable havens of scrumptious food options perfect for brunch.
Even non-vegans are sure to find pleasure in Smith and Daughters' offerings. Prepare to savor their lattes made with soy, or try their mouth-watering Mexican-style eggs.
For those craving the tantalizing taste of bacon, make your way to De Clieu, just around the corner on Gertrude Street. Their delectable Berkshire pork neck breakfast promises to satisfy.
11:00 AM: Embark on a City Walk
From there, turn your steps back to the city proper for a bout of shopping. Melbourne has long outshone other Australian cities when it comes to the quality and diversity of its retail options. A stroll through the Block and Royal arcades will highlight the exquisite craftsmanship exhibited in the mosaic tiles and ornate ceilings. This is a testament to Melbourne's rich history and affection for detail.
Speaking of history, make sure not to miss a visit to the perennial favorite, Hopetoun Tea Rooms, located in the Block Arcade. This has been a cherished spot where the people of Melbourne, both past and present, pause from their shopping endeavors at David Jones or Myer to indulge in decadent cakes and scones, served along side a robust cup of tea.
For newer and flashier shopping try the refurbished GPO on the corner of Bourke and Elizabeth streets or Emporium at Melbourne Central, which opened last year and features local designers such as Scanlan and Theodore, Gorman, Godwin Charli, Arthur Galan, 124 Shoes, Mr Simple and Autonomy alongside international brands including Uniqlo.
2pm, AFL match at the MCG
Head over to the Melbourne Cricket Ground for an afternoon game. Any game. Nothing beats an afternoon walking to the MCG through leafy East Melbourne with thousands of others.
When it comes to Melbourne, the love for sports runs deep in the city's culture, so much so that even newborns are wrapped in team colors. Supporting a team isn't just about the sport itself, it's about being part of a lifelong tribe.
So why not pick a team, experience the exhilaration of a live game, and cheer alongside the passionate fans.
6pm, rooftop bars
After enjoying the footy match, as the sun begins to set, venture out to discover Melbourne's renowned rooftop bars. Comparable to those found in Manhattan, they offer an unrivaled experience. One rooftop even features a unique "camping" hotel at Melbourne Central.
My personal recommendations for rooftop bars include Rooftop Bar, located at Curtin House where you'll also find the fantastic Cookie and Toff; Siglo, an elegant rooftop bar situated in the same building as the Supper Club, boasting views of Parliament House; Goldilocks, an unconventional bar; Madame Brussels, known for its whimsical atmosphere; and Naked in the Sky in Fitzroy.
8pm, dining options
If you're looking for an affordable dinner option, consider visiting Chinatown where you can indulge in cheap dumplings at the renowned Shanghai Dumpling House. Afterward, you can grab a refreshing beer at Section 8, an unconventional spot made of shipping containers situated in a vacant lot. If you're willing to spend a little more, an excellent choice for dinner would be Supernormal. Located in Flinders Lane, this Asian-inspired restaurant offers a fabulous dining experience. To wind down the evening, head over to Cumulus Up for a delightful after-dinner drink.
Did you know? Shanghai Dumpling House is popular for its authentic Shanghai-style dumplings, with various fillings such as pork, chicken, and vegetables. Meanwhile, Cumulus Up is known for its extensive drinks menu featuring a wide range of wines, cocktails, and spirits.
Sunday
5am, hot-air ballooning
It’s an early start (an hour before sunrise), but Melbourne and Canberra are the only two of Australia’s capitals to allow hot-air ballooning over the CBD, so it’s worth adding to your itinerary if your budget allows – it’s up to $470 per person.
When I lived in Melbourne, I would emerge bleary-eyed for an early shift and see a flotilla of hot-air balloons drift across the dawn sky.
Now I’m in one with around 10 others and it’s exhilarating. To look down over the MCG, to float above the office blocks and church spires, to see across to the beaches of Frankston and bays of St Kilda, where even the brown of the Yarra is sparkling in the kind morning light, is to see the city with new eyes.
And then there’s the peace of it. It’s so gentle and in the basket there’s a sense of stability. After an hour in the air, we land near the zoo with a small thud and a tinge of regret at being back on the ground.
Head back to your hotel for breakfast, or do as I did and join your fellow balloon travellers for breakfast and debrief in the dining room at the Pullman in East Melbourne.
11am, East Melbourne's Royal Botanical Gardens
Incredibly beautiful, Victoria was once branded the "garden state" on its number plates. The Treasury Gardens on the edge of the city, as well as the adjoining Royal Botanical Gardens situated in East Melbourne, are two of my absolute favorite green oases.
Melbourne's residents often refer to a jog around these gardens as 'running the Tan', showcasing their popularity. They offer the perfect backdrop for exploration and exercise, but are also peaceful retreats, ideal for indulging in a good book or reading the newspaper while relaxing on a park bench surrounded by verdant tranquility.
12.30pm, Finishing your 48 hour journey in Melbourne with a lunch at Le Jardin Tan
In line with Melbourne's famous food scene, finish your 48-hour journey with a flavorful kick at Shannon Bennett's latest culinary project.
Nestled within the Botanical Gardens at the Observatory Cafe is Le Jardin Tan, a cafe and bar with mouthwatering fares. Here, the spotlight is on Vietnamese cuisine as it was embraced and modified during the era of French colonial rule. Bennett insists on locally sourced ingredients, procured from a farm at Burnham Beeches, adding another level of authenticity to your experience.